So we started our multi-leg overland journey by bus and by train. The day train from Guilin to Guiyang was quite comfortable in a six-bed hard sleeper cabin, if only a little cramped. Arriving late at night, we stumbled our way to a seedy hotel. The next day was another multi-leg journey from Guiyang to Getu via Anshun and Ziyun. This was an entertainingly difficult day of travel as our non-existent Chinese had us learning quickly in an immersion of new sounds, sights, and symbols. We mostly got places by pointing at names in our guidebooks. We were clearly in a place where foreigners are rarely seen, which was refreshing as it feels that your presence is more appreciated than in touristy places like yangshuo. We were happy to see smiles and meet friendly people who helped us on our way.
Everchanging China: Along the way is where we also started to see an example of the rapid growth and expansion of dusty cities and smoggy urban life into the dusty countryside. We were left with the impression that, in many ways, the Chinese are tripping over themselves to build and build with new highways, massive tunnels, cranes and skyscrapers overshadowing the shanties, chickens, and stray dogs. In every direction, there was either demolition or construction or agriculture. Copy/paste architecture began to rule the streets as always unfinished cinder block buildings with raw rebar on the rooftops became the staple.
Arriving to Getu in the evening, the main hostel was full, and the only other pick in town had only squatter toilets and no hot water or wifi. But we made the best of it, spending as much time as possible outdoors.
The Great Arch was our main destination, and when we saw it the next day from the road far below, all we could say was "we made it!" Our friends there in the dozen-strong climbing community had warned us though that there was also new construction inside the arch (!), a cable car from below meant to be finished in July. We were able to ignore the short-lived sound of the generator as we slapped, pinched, underclinged and smeared our way up upside-down scoops. The style of climbing there is unlike anything we've encountered and so unique in that the stone never sees weather, sun or rain. A sublime experience.
The rest of our short time there was spent seeing as many crags as possible. We were inspired one day to climb one of the biggest walls there: CMDI wall for the Chinese Mountain Development Institute. The approach hike took us through a wilderness touched by man over disused stone terraces that felt ancient. The easiest route up the wall was Blue Spirit, six-pitches up to French 6a. It was the longest route in Anna's logbook so far and was a very interesting and satisfying achievement. Classic Chinese white limestone cliffs with scraggy bushes dotted with red leaves, something off a Confucian scroll.
The way back to Guiyang was easier than the way out and the night train to Kunming, Yunnan, on a soft sleeper was pleasant. A couple days in Kunming in a proper apartment was a refreshing change of facilities as we battled through a brief belly-bug. The city itself was very pleasant with a nice lakeside park and a perfect climate. Sunday evening had all kinds of people in the park; our favorite was a group playing and dancing to Classical Chinese music.
Now, we are in Pokhara, Nepal, after a short stopover in Kathmandu. The view from the city here is amazing, with a giant lake and towering peaks, Machhapuchhare or "Fishtail" (7k meters tall) the most prominent, just out of reach beyond the foothills. We plan to start an 8-day wilderness rafting experience on the Karnali river in remote western Nepal tomorrow. And after that onto the Bardia Jungle, where we hope to see a Bengal tiger (yea right) or a one-horned rhino.
Photos:
Train time!
The sign on the dashboard of the minibus that goes to Getu. We learned to memorize these few symbols.
The Great Arch from below, with our friend Ben from Bristol.
The Swallow Cave, sits just below the Great Arch...
A peaceful pole-ferry across the river.
The walls are covered in script and Anna's bag is heavy.
No single photo can do justice to the immensity of the arch...
Spotting out climbs and feeling small.
Anna coming out of the shadows and into the scoops on her first 7a+!
Anna rapping off a long one. Hopefully this picture shows some scale. This is a partial view of one wall one on side of the arch.
A funky vertical panorama of the arch...
The sun tries to poke through the clouds as Tony descends from another climb.
Cragging with the goats.
Peering up at the massive CMDI wall.
A panorama from high up on Blue Spirit.
A hardy bush-whack across the base of CMDI leads through rose thorns galore, but also some nice flowers.
One of the stone tombs plus a cute Asian cow.
A spirited Maj Jhong game at a secluded park in Kunming.
Anna found some sweet lens-less glasses in the college district. As elsewhere, people here dress quite fancy and the young kids are hip to the newest trends in fashion.
Night-time at the lake park.
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