China: yangshuo

So, as we depart from behind the Great FireWall of China (behind which google and Facebook are blocked and any type of Internet usage is difficult) we write to you from sunny Kathmandu, Nepal. We are safe and sound here, further away from any bird flu scares or nuclear threats and only with a bit of uneasy digestion (to be expected).

Last we wrote was during a restful day in Yangshuo. Since then, we have climbed a lot of limestone, seeking to touch as many crags as possible in our short time and occasionally get a little bit higher than a single pitch off the ground. We also enjoyed being able to see a bit of Chinese domestic tourism, as our locale was a very popular destination during the long weekend of the Tomb Sweeping Festival. All across the countryside, people make pilgrimage to the stone tombs of their ancestors, hack away the bush that grew in the intervening year, and light off a pile of firecrackers to awaken the spirits of the dead and to let them know that they've not been forgotten. The streets were packed with Chinese and WaiGouRen (foreigners) alike. As seems to be our fate, we wind up arriving to various destinations just before or during holidays, when room rates go up and delays become the norm. Anyway, we fought though the rain and crowds to find some amazing friends to show us around. Biking to the crags everyday was our commute and we were glad to tag along as we would have gotten so lost on our own out on the dusty roads and rice-terrace trails. Many of the crags were wet and seeping, with tufas and stalagtites dripping down on us and slimy pockets for handholds, but we made the best of it. One of our favorite days in Yangshuo was at Moon Hill. It is a classic and iconic karst arch at the top of a hill.

The view from our hotel onto a peaceful courtyard, which we quite enjoyed despite our utter inability to communicate with the staff.

Which one is Anna? She's the one in the bright yellow poncho getting sidelong looks from passersby.

Moon Hill as seen from below, an amazing feature.

Anna tearing it up alongside the Moon Hill arch, surrounded by many more amazingly steep and beautiful forested karst peaks.

This peak sits right outside of town. It's truly amazing how people here have made utmost use of any flatlands.

This is the family dog at our hotel, a beautiful husky who's name translates to Small Four. We miss you, Harvey!

The view from the top of one of Anna's leads on the Egg.

Finally, some sunshine (enough to get burned!) on the west side of the Egg!

Action shot! Steep roof climbing = fun!

Muslim noodles, handmade while you wait.

Standard scenery on the bike commute, pagoda-like arch, people toting their wares all around and these little worktrucks with no hoods putting around.

Bamboo raft de-rig beach and shuttle vehicle. A little different than our style of rafting!

Muscling through a steep traverse on East Twin Gate peak.

A panoramic view from near the top of West Twin Gate (please let me know if it looks strange).

Waving goodby to yangshuo!